duPont REGISTRY takes a dive into the fine watches for the Fall season of 2017. Watches from watchmakers around the globe are included in the guide below, written by Roberta Naas, veteran award-winning journalist in the watch industry with 30 years of experience. You can read more from her by visiting her website ATimelyPerpective.com.
By Roberta Naas
Royal Oak Chronograph
Crafted in 18-karat rose gold with a blue Grande Tapisserie dial and large chronograph pink gold subdials, this Royal Oak Chronograph is a vision in blue and pink. The hand-stitched alligator strap is offered in a rich blue to match the dial. With a diameter of 41mm and a case thickness of 11 mm, this watch works under a suit jacket and with blue jeans. The gold applied hour markers and Royal Oak hands feature a luminescent coating for easy readability. The self-winding watch offers chronograph functions, small seconds, and date. The integrated column-wheel chronograph has a power reserve of 40 hours. Approx. $38,300.
Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
A master at creating luxurious sport appeal, Audemars Piguet pulls out all the stops in this Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph that brings together jet-black ceramic with 18-karat rose gold and bold red accents. The 44mm timepiece, which offers chronograph functions, date at 3:00, and hours, minutes and small seconds, is an intriguing mix of stealth and bold beauty. The rich black Mega Tapisserie dial with gold-colored flange is a startling look against the black ceramic bezel. Water resistant to 100 meters, the watch is powered by a self-winding movement with 365 pieces inside and offering 50 hours of power reserve. Approx. $45,900.
Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
Crafted in stainless steel, this 42mm Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph is a statement in gray. From the Mega Tapisserie dial to the exotic hornback alligator strap, the high-tech timepiece easily goes from office to outdoors. The brand’s in-house-made Caliber 3126/3840 that consists of 365 parts, including a cam chronograph mechanism and oscillating weight with ceramic ball bearing, powers the chronograph watch. The sapphire crystal and sapphire caseback – perfect for viewing the movement – are glare proofed. The watch, which is water resistant to 100 meters, is a singular statement of sporty chic. Approx. $26,000.
Royal Oak Offshore Diver
If the bright tangerine orange Mega Tapisserie dial of this Royal Oak Offshore Diver doesn’t grab your attention, then maybe the technology behind the watch will nab you. A rugged yet boldly beautiful professional instrument, this watch dons an orange and blue color scheme perfect for the oceans. Water resistant to 300 meters, the stainless steel case features blue rubber-clad screw-locked crowns and is equipped with an orange rubber strap. The dial (with luminescent coated hands and markers) has a blue rotating inner bezel with diving scale and zone from 60 to15 minutes in orange. Powered by a 280-part self-winding movement, the watch offers hours, minutes, center seconds and date in addition to dive-time measurements. Approx. $19,900.
Carl F. Bucherer
An elegant statement in luxury sport watches, this striking Manero Flyback Chronograph incorporates sophisticated colors and styling with state-of-the-art mechanics. Powered by the automatic CFB 1970 caliber, the flyback chronograph function means that the wearer need only push start and reset when timing an event; there is no need to push stop. This means the hand flies back to zero to start timing the next event with the smallest possible gap in timing of consecutive events. All of the chronograph functions operate without affecting the constant measuring of real time. The 43mm watch is crafted in stainless steel and is further equipped with date and tachymeter bezel for measuring speeds. The sapphire crystal is anti-reflective on both sides and there is a sapphire caseback. Water resistant to 30 meters, the watch is finished with a gray Louisiana alligator strap. Approx. $6,900.
Patravi Traveltec Black
Easily one of the most coveted sport watches, the Carl F. Bucherer Patravi TravelTec now has a new version created in stainless steel with black DLC (Diamond Like Coating) for a stealth appeal. The automatic watch houses the CFB 1901.1 movement that indicates hour, minute, time in three zones, seconds, date and chronograph functions. The COSC-certified chronometer chronograph measures 46.6mm in diameter and is water resistant to 50 meters. The precision watch is finished with a screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides. The rubber strap is stitched and embossed. Approx.$13,600.
Cuervo y Sobrinos
Historiador Tradicion Champagne
Celebrating its 135th anniversary this year, Swiss brand Cuervo y Sobrinos unveils a remake of a vintage masterpiece that is faithful to the original 1950’s design found in the historical archives in Havana. The new Historiador Tradicion Champagne watch offers stunning classic appeal thanks to the bubble shaped crystal and finely decorated dial. In fact, the dial features a grid-shaped “frappage” motif, with trapezoid markers at 3:00 and 9:00, intermixed with eight raised circular markers and a Cuervo y Sobrinos cartouche at 12:00. Even the brand name on the dial is written in a vintage style script. The 40 mm stainless steel automatic watch offers 42 hours of power reserve and is created in a limited edition of just 882 pieces. The sapphire caseback has a coin center motif with the dates 1882 and 2017 on it, and the crystal is printed with the watch number on it. Approx. $3,850.
Robusto Day-Date “Churchill” Limited Edition
In his day, Winston Churchill, cigar aficionado, was a loyal customer of the Cuervo y Sobrinos boutique in La Habana. Now, the brand continues to pay homage to the statesman with its fourth edition of the Robusto Churchill collection: Robusto Day-Date Churchill Limited Edition. The three-part case features an innovative crown system inspired by an antique pocket watch – complete with a unique key system almost integrated into the case. The stunning white ceramic dial is lacquered in marbled grey anthracite for a crackle effect – giving the 43mm watch a vintage appeal. Just 200 pieces will be made, all numbered on the dial at 6:00. The Swiss made automatic movement has a power reserve of 38 hours. Approx. $4,340.
Eberhard & Co.
Chrono 4 130
In honor of its 130th anniversary this year, Eberhard & Co., founded in 1887, celebrates its Swiss watchmaking heritage with several new limited edition Chrono 4 timepieces. The Chrono 4 has a unique and patented design that features four counters horizontally across the center of the dial depicting minutes, hours, 24 hours and small seconds. There are three new dial versions of this watch, including the argente silver one seen here with alluring azure’e finishing and blue accents. The watch offers luminescent applied indices, an outer tachymeter scale and date at 12:00. The sword-shaped skeleton hands have luminous points. The chronograph push buttons are drop-shaped for ergonomic appeal. Approx. $6,600.
Chrono 4 130 Edition Limitée
This Limited Edition Chrono 4 130, Reference 31130, is also created in an edition of just 130 pieces. The highly technical mechanical chronograph with a patented, registered design offers the four counters arranged in a horizontal row on the dial for daring appeal. Powered by the EB.251 121/2” caliber with ETA 2894-2 base, the automatic movement displays minutes, hours, 24 hours and small seconds in the four counters, while the date is shown at 12:00. The rotor has a circular design finished in a Cotes de Genève pattern and featuring the number 130 in blue. Crafted in steel with a satin and polished finish, the 42mm watch is water resistant to 50 meters. The alluring black dial is opened in the center to allow for viewing of the partially skeletonized movement. Approx. $10,640.
Graham Chronofighter Vintage Nose Art Ltd., Lilly
Recalling the whimsical and often glamorous illustrations of 1940’s military plane art, Graham brings the pin-up life to the wrist on the dials of its newest Chronofighter Vintage Nose Art Ltd series of watches. There are four pin-up girls being offered, each in a limited edition of 100 pieces. This 44mm stainless steel watch features Lilly prominently on the dial. It was believed that paintings on the fighter planes helped to boost morale, a concept that seems right on target on the wrist. The watch is powered by an automatic chronograph movement, and offers day, date and sub-seconds dial. Lilly is perched at 3:00, as though sitting on the nose of a plane. Each watch has a serial number at 9:00 and is water resistant to 100 meters. Approx. $5,450.
Graham Chronofighter Vintage GMT
Inspired by the original historical timepieces used in military aviation, Graham unveils the Chronofighter Vintage GMT watch in army green. The automatic chronograph with GMT timing/second time zone indication is a statement in form and function. With sunbrushed radial gradient khaki green dial and matching green calf leather strap, the bold chronograph with big date makes a powerful statement. Crafted in steel, the 44mm watch features a ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel with GMT scale, chronograph with fast-action start/stop trigger, domed sapphire crystal and see through sapphire case back. With hands and markers in luminous material, the watch is water resistant to 100 meters. Approx. $6950.
Big Bang Ferrari
The newest addition to the Hublot Big Bang Ferrari line, a Ferrari-inspired collaboration that began six years ago, is the Big Bang Ferrari King Gold watch which brings together luxury and mechanical prowess. The dial, which allows for viewing of the movement inside, resembles the autos that inspired it, with a minute counter and date window at 3:00 designed to emulate a tachymeter. The date indication takes the yellow color of Ferrari, while the famed Prancing Horse logo at 6:00 brings the concept full circle. Powered by the Hublot UNICO movement, the watch offers flyback chronograph function. The iconic star spoke design of the rotor, inspired by the Ferrari wheel rims, is visible via a sapphire caseback. While the watch is available as limited edition in all metals offered, only 500 pieces of this King Gold version will be made. Approx. $42,200.
Techframe Ferrari Tourbillon Chronograph in Titanium
This highly creative Hublot Techframe Ferrari Tourbillon Chronograph celebrates the partnership of these two luxury brands, as well as the 70th anniversary of Ferrari. The open-worked case of this timepiece is conceived of at the Ferrari Design Center in the same way they design the cars. This is the first non-automotive item created by the historic brand. Hublot in its Swiss workshops then crafts the case. Combining strength, performance and precision, the new watch is offered in three versions, each with just 70 pieces being made. This Titanium version is lightweight yet durable. The 45mm case is made of micro-blasted titanium and is water resistant to 30 meters. The watch features the Ferrari logo on the crown and the Ferrari red lever for the pushbutton of the chronograph is made in anodized aluminum. Powered by the 253-part HUB6311 manual wind movement, the tourbillon chronograph offers 115 hours of power reserve. Approx. $127,000.
Looking for true form and function? MTM Watch offers an exquisite timepiece that is a deft blend of craftsmanship and technology, the MTM 3-GER watch. Powered by the automatic chronograph ETA 7750 COSC-certified chronometer movement, the 46mm titanium 3-GER is a must-have collectible. Skillfully refined in a limited production, the MTM 3-GER watch is offered in four distinct finishes: Black true DLC, Gray Sandblast, Brushed Silver and Gold Plated. Each watch is developed, engineered, and assembled in the United States. The 3-GER watch offers certain customizable elements, such as its bezel, hands, dial, calendar, bracelet links and ball bearings, to name a few. With these options customers can create their own unique watch. The 3-GER is also equipped with a spring-loaded raised bezel that can be elevated 1mm above the sapphire crystal for added protection, or level down for a thinner more elegant profile. $9,000 to $10,000 depending on customized options.
The MTM 3-GER’s most unique element is its bracelet. Exclusive and patented, the ball bearing titanium bracelet is the only bracelet in the world made using ball bearings instead of traditional pins. The bracelet is a patented construction using high-tech CNC machined links that are connected with ball bearings to ensure high standards of quality, performance and smooth ergonomic comfort. The ball bearings on the bracelet are also interchangeable and can be ordered and customized with Blue “Spinel Sphere crystals” or “Red ruby jewels” giving each watch the ultimate revolutionary touch of elegance and value. Each 3-GER watch is water resistant to 200 meters and comes with a three-year warranty attesting to its standards of craftsmanship. $9,000 to $10,000 depending on customization.
Orbita’s patented Rotorwind technology is the force behind the brand’s beloved Piccolo series of automatic winders. Designed to fit in small spaces, each individual Piccolo is covered in elegant black leatherette and is offered in a variety of face panel options in terms of colors and materials. When you purchase three individual Piccolo winders, Orbita offers an elegant outer wood storage compartment with a felt-lined tray on top for convenient storage of the individual winders. Additional compartments can also be purchased ($195), as they are stackable for optimal space conservation. Made in the USA. Individual Piccolo winders: $395.
Sleek and edgy, the Milano 12 from Orbita offers cutting-edge style for winding of 12 of your favorite watches. With a carbon fiber faceplate and 6mm thick tempered glass doors against a 10mm thick smoked tempered glass case, the Milano 12 is a display piece and a conversation starter, as well as a functional device. The Milano 12 sits atop four feet and houses 12 of Orbita’s acclaimed watch winders with patented Rotorwind technology. Brushed nickel hinges and a nickel lock finish the stealth, contemporary look. An A/C adapter powers Milano 12. Approx. $12,995.
GT Tour 371 SE
Designed to emulate vintage car gauges and dashboard instruments, the Reservoir Swiss Made GT Tour 371 SE watch brings the automotive spirit to new heights. The dial displays time in a decidedly different manner. The mechanical automatic movement, caliber 2824-2, is equipped with a proprietary module featuring another 97 components that enables it to display the time via a red-orange retrograde minute hand and a jumping hour at 6:00 that emulates the RPM gauges. Like the Reservoir logo inspired from the fuel jerrican, the power reserve indicator beneath the jumping hour recalls a fuel gauge. Crafted in black PVD 316L stainless steel with a satin finish, the watch features an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 5 ATM. The bold black dial with orange accents is complemented by a black perforated leather strap with red/orange stitching for true auto-inspired appeal. Approx. $3,400.
Offering a totally different look and feel than its auto-inspired sibling, the Reservoir Tiefenmesser Bronze watch has a vintage appeal that is at once timeless and classic, drawing inspiration from submarine instruments. Like all watches in the Reservoir lineup, the Tiefenmesser displays time via a jumping hour and retrograde minute hand. In this instance, though, the 43mm case is crafted in solid bronze with a satin finish. The bronze case surrounds a white dial with black minute track and light blue accents. The long minutes hand is pale blue, as are the jumping hour numerals. The power reserve indication, instead of being shown in hours, is depicted using circles that turn red as the power reserve winds up. Finished with vintage-style brown leather strap for classic appeal. Approx. $3,700.
Excalibur Spider Pirelli Automatic Skeleton
After entering into an agreement earlier this year with Pirelli, Roger Dubois unveils some pretty exciting timepieces that incorporate used Pirelli racing tires from winning cars only. Such is the case with this Excalibur Spider Pirelli Automatic Skeleton watch in block and bold yellow – one of the official colors of the Pirelli logo. The 45mm case is black DLC titanium with Block DLC crown overmolded with bold yellow rubber. The automatic skeletonized movement consists of 167 finely finished components and a micro-rotor. The strap is made of a black rubber base with an inlay of winning Pirelli motorsport tire rubber There is a unique Pirelli tire motif on the inside of the strap. This yellow version is one of a trilogy of three that includes a blue one because the winning tires of the Monaco GP Fl race in 2016 had the blue Pirelli code, and a red one to honor Pirelli’s other official logo odor. All the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli limited editions carry the Hallmark of Geneva certification. Just 88 pieces of each will be made. Approx. $66,500.
Excalibur Spider Carbon Skeleton Flying Tourbillon
Taking its a!reody avant-garde style to new heights, Roger Dubois introduces the revolutionary Excalibur Spider Carbon Skeleton Flying Tourbillon. Focusing on performance and design, the futuristic-looking watch deftly brings together lighter weight materials, higher power reserve and a skeletonized flying tourbillon. The 45mm case is made of multi-layers of carbon and titanium, overmolded with red rubber. The fluted carbon bezel is a great contrast with the bold red markings. red rubber overmolded crown and red minute track on the carbon flange. The bi-color strop is mode using a rubber base and red RubberTech fabric inlay. The watch is powered by the brand’s Skeleton Flying Tourbillon PAD509S0 caliber with 179 parts and 90 hours of power reserve. it is the first movement in the industry entirely made of carbon and it holds the Poincon de Geneve certification. Just 88 pieces will be made. Approx. $190,003.
American Artisan Series, Springfield
Vortic is pairing cutting edge technology with beautiful, authentic, quality watch movements and other watch parts made more than 100 years ago. This unusual approach represents an effort to preserve an important part of United States watchmaking history in a functional way. The American Artisan Series is a line of fully American Made wristwatches powered by restored, U.S.-made pocket watch movements. Each complete watch consists of the original movement, dial and hands from a vintage (1880’s – 1950’s) pocket watch made by one of the original great American watch companies. Contrasting to that history, every watchcase is a 3D printed case. Models such as “The Chicago,” “The Boston,” and “The Springfield” are named after the location of their original manufacturer (Elgin, Waltham, Illinois, etc.). Every watch is one-of-a-kind. “The Springfield 051” shown here (MSRP $2,095) has a 49mm 3D printed titanium case with “Bronzed” finish. Also available in 46mm. Prices range from $995 to $3,995.
American Artisan Series, Museum Grade
While every piece in the American Artisan Series is one-of-a-kind, the “Museum Grade” goes a step beyond this, offering a new level of customization. Usually commissioned by customers, Museum Grade watches feature a case that is 100% customized for the movement inside of it. Where “standard” American Artisan Series pieces use a relatively standardized case design in 46mm and 49mm, one-off Museum Grade cases are designed from the ground up in virtually any size desired. Any customization requests, from precious metals, to aesthetic design features, sizes, etc., are possible. The 36mm watch shown here features a 0size pocket watch movement made by the Waltham Watch Company of Waltham, Massachusetts in 1898. Vortic cast a unique Sterling Silver case around it and created a one-off solid silver crown. Prices range from $2,995 to $9,995.